When it comes to menswear, I’m sort of clueless. Really clueless, actually. The whole “boys are gross” seed was planted in my head at a very early age, and therefore I never paid a whole lot of attention to what they were wearing. But that’s sort of all changing.
The menswear shows in Milan are wrapping up, photos are trickling in, and by the looks of things it’s been a deliciously good time.
For me, the problem with menswear has always been the lack of creativity. A black suit is a black suit is a black suit. Tailoring is important yes, and sharp lines are good, sure, and sometimes you can do fun things with cuff links and coat tails and the like, but at the end of the day, wouldn’t you rather look at a couture gown with pretty things like beadwork and cutouts and lace?
From throwback military coats to Edwardian loungewear to modern day Zoot suits, the fall and winter looks that hit the runway this week were just as varied as they were cool. Shows oozed luxury, with models decked out in furs and leathers as they strutted man-ishly down the runway.
I particularly was impressed by the Burberry Prorsum show, because most of the looks were completely accessible while still referencing that dapper London aesthetic the brand is known for. The jewel two-toned suits are a welcomed pop of color, while unexpected accessories–like those newsboy caps, red-tipped gloves and fun umbrellas–pull everything together.
This Matrix-esque collection by Jil Sander was so streamlined and razor sharp that at first I was sort of scared but then I was like “Brilliant, Raf! Show me more!” It’s sort of like every single villain from every single movie paraded through an underground parking garage and the results are magnetic. I also love how the collection picks up on the same moody vibes that overshadow the label’s recently released spring campaign.
Dolce and Gabbana’s over-the-top loudness translates surprisingly well into menswear. The statement jackets are so from another world that, um, I kind of want one.
The Salvatore Ferragamo man is probably the best kind of man. He’s so cool. He can wear purple ombre and no one even cares. He’s effortless. He’s dandy, but in a really sinister way. He’s everything. What I like about this collection is that nothing is slouchy. Jacket lapels end in a sleek point, and even something as easy to wear as a sweater looks polished.
Miuccia Prada knows how to put on a show. That much we know. Pair long post-war military coats with Adrien Brody with a stunning Italian venue, and there’s not much left to say. This show speaks for itself.
So in conclusion, menswear has probably been great for years and I’m just now noticing. But better late than never I suppose, hmm?
Anyone else out there have some favorite looks they’d like to share?
**UPDATE: I just asked my boyfriend which collection he liked the best and he said “None of them.” And then he dropped $200 on a new soccer jersey.